The Beauty Icons Series…HELENA RUBINSTEIN

HELENA RUBINSTEIN: The Empress of Beauty

Legendary Beauty Industry Titan: Madame Helena Rubinstein

At the time of her death, in 1965, Helena Rubinstein had become one of the richest women in the world. A fascinating figure, well-ahead of her time, she left her distinctive mark, simultaneously, on the worlds of beauty, art, and business. With her avant-garde style and regal bearing, she captivated the world with her modern, scientific approach to “beauty through science”.

Born Chaja Rubinstein, on Christmas Day in 1870, in Krakow, Poland, she was the eldest of eight daughters in a middle-class Jewish family. Her beautiful mother instilled in her the belief that she would gain power and influence through beauty, intelligence and love.

Rubinstein crashed the glass ceiling, overcoming significant barriers as a woman in her time and cultural context. Through sheer determination and a keen entrepreneurial spirit, she became one of the most famous and successful businesswomen of the 20th century.

Madame declared, "There are no ugly women, only lazy ones."

While she stood high atop the pinnacle of the beauty industry, this marketing genius was a diminutive four feet and 10 inches tall. During meetings and interviews, she would place a cushion in her seat to increase her stature, legs left dangling behind her desk.

With genius, she deftly melded the worlds of beauty, science and art

LIFE magazine wrote, “Rubinstein’s greatest promotion….is undoubtedly herself.”

Rubinstein’s journey to success began when she refused an arranged marriage and fled to Australia in 1902. Arriving in Melbourne with little money and no English, she managed to open her first salon with the help of her uncle. She began formulating and selling a beauty cream that she claimed could rejuvenate the skin. She called her first cream, Valaze, Hungarian for “gift from heaven”.

Despite initial skepticism, her elegant clothes, eclectic style and beautiful milky complexion stood out. She soon gained attention and a significant following for her homemade creams. She became a lifelong student of dermatology and nutrition and soon expanded her business to London and Paris.

She was a pioneer of esthetics education

Rubinstein was also a strong advocate for beauty education. She believed that every woman should have access to knowledge about skincare and makeup, empowering them to enhance their natural beauty.

She revolutionized the beauty industry by introducing concepts such as personalized skincare regimens tailored to different skin types. She emphasized the importance of skincare as the foundation of beauty, a groundbreaking concept at the time.

She adopted her white lab coat uniform, stressing hygiene and a scientific approach to innovation in product formulation. In an effort to deepen her technical knowledge and credibility, she surrounded herself with doctors, dermatologists and cosmetic surgeons.

Her legacy includes the establishment of beauty schools and educational programs, teaching women about proper skincare techniques and makeup application. Her scientific approach to beauty helped create jobs and career paths for countless women.

By creating innovative marketing techniques, sponsoring beauty contests and utilizing celebrity endorsements, her business soon thrived.

Rubinstein’s empire continued to expand globally. With elegant salons, innovative cosmetic products and laboratories now well-established in Europe, she moved to New York in 1915 and opened her first American salon to enormous acclaim and financial success.

Throughout the roaring twenties, she began working with Hollywood movie stars while opening chic and elegant salons across America. She continued to amass a tremendous fortune by mass-producing her eponymous cosmetic products internationally.

Helena introduces the water-proof mascara and takes Hollywood by storm

By the end of WW II, she had established manufacturing facilities on five continents and salons in fourteen countries. Amassing a personal fortune of $100 million, she became prominent in international society and maintained beautiful homes in cities around the world. She established the Helena Rubinstein Foundation to provide funding for the arts and other charitable institutions.

As Madame grew older, she would hold meetings reclining on her famous Lucite bed, surrounded by employees and advisors.

PATRON OF THE ARTS

Beyond her business acumen, Rubinstein was also a passionate art collector and patron of the arts. She amassed an impressive collection of modern art, including works by Picasso, Matisse, Chagal, Degas and Modigliani.

A collection of Helena Rubenstein portraits

Her appreciation for art influenced her approach to beauty, seeing makeup as a form of self-expression and enhancement rather than mere cosmetic artifice. Helena Rubinstein, the cosmetics magnate and one of the great collectors of her time, assembled an impressive art collection that reflected her eclectic tastes and sophisticated eye.

Her collection spanned various periods and styles, ranging from ancient artifacts to modern masterpieces. She pioneered a keen interest in African and Oceanic art, amassing a significant number of pieces from these regions. Her vast art collection was prominently displayed in her homes, offices and salons.

Madame surrounded by her collection of African and Oceanic art

Rubinstein’s art collection not only adorned her residences but also served as inspiration for her cosmetic creations. She often drew parallels between the colors, textures, and forms found in art and those in her makeup line, blurring the lines between beauty and art. Her collection reflected her eclectic tastes and served as a testament to her appreciation for beauty in all its forms.

She enthusiastically supported emerging artists, especially those focused on themes of beauty, femininity, and identity. Through her patronage, she not only supported artists financially but also helped promote their work to a wider audience.

Her avant-garde approach drew its inspiration from art, incorporating elements of Cubism, Surrealism, and Abstract Expressionism into her cosmetics packaging and advertising campaigns. She understood the power of visual aesthetics in marketing and used art-inspired designs to distinguish her brand from competitors.

Rubinstein’s cultural influence extended beyond the realm of beauty products. She hosted salons and cultural gatherings that brought together a vibrant creative community of artists, intellectuals, and business leaders. Through her connections and influence, she helped shape the cultural landscape of her time.

The inimitable Helena Rubinstein: Tycoon, Philanthropist & Patron of the Arts

Helena Rubinstein died of natural causes on April 1, 1965, at age ninety-four. She had been photographed by LIFE magazine the year before, hard-at-work, stirring a vat of beauty cream in her lab.

Her extraordinary legacy will continue to inspire generations of artists, entrepreneurs, and beauty enthusiasts alike.

Beauty giant L’Oreal purchased the Helena Rubinstein brand in 1984. The purchase price was not disclosed

Academy Award winner Michelle Yeoh has been named spokesperson and brand ambassador for Helena Rubinstein